Around the world by freighter

Name:
Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

We worked too hard for too long, now it's time to slow down!

Monday, February 20, 2006

Hi,
Just a quick not to say we will be at sea for the next three weeks or so and will not be able to download again until about the 18th March, 2006. Say Jayden last night and he is doing great.

Saturday, February 18, 2006

SUNDAY 12TH FEBRUARY 2006
Well we have completed our first month on board the Rickmers Jakarta, and we are now faced with the big decision; do we change beds? Much discussion ensued and the consensus was that it was time for change; we will change beds now, and at the end of each calendar month. Gee, so glad that’s over.
Another decision was made this morning, but it was done for different reasons. Much of the reading and research we have done in respect to this trip indicated that many of the passengers who had compiled stories or logs of their journeys, battled to come to grips with the enormity of the complete around the world voyage. Whilst the majority of them had nothing but praise for the overall experience, there seemed to be niggling undertones that hinted of things not quite to their likings. Some of the tales described things on the ships that got on their goat, or, as seemed to be the most prevalent theme, other passengers that really p****d them off. One has to appreciate that a ship is a huge environ, but the accommodation section is only a small part of the whole scene. Unfortunately, it is in this section that most of the interaction between officers, crew and passengers takes place. We are talking of many different ethnic, social and economic backgrounds and in some (many) cases there exists a degree of one up manship displayed. This is not always intentional, but you can see quite easily how dissent can creep into a workplace or social relationship quite easily. Food, noise, choice of music, dress, position in the food chain, duration at sea, length of stay in port/shore time, etc., all takes their toll on some peoples minds. So having painted this picture, the other big decision is that we have decided to put our own thoughts of the preceding month in print. When this journey is all over and we are back in the land of Oz, we hope to be able to look back and see just how our perceptions of what we wanted out of this trip, and what we have enjoyed/endured for 4 months in an environ we have little control over has played with our minds. So to the first monthly summations;
JUDY:
Even though I had read everything I could get my hands, in reality, I had no idea of what to expect. In respect to the way we usually travel, this is so out of the norm for Doug and me, so I certainly had no idea how much I would enjoy the trip. We never go away with preconceived ideas when holidaying, as we find that we enjoy ourselves more this way. I can now say it is much more enjoyable than I could have ever imagined! By researching as we did, we packed a lot of items that were suggested, but to date most of these things are just taking up space in our cupboards. We still have along way to go, so time will tell us whether we have brought some of the other things along for the ride. I think we did a good job on guessing what toiletries, coffee etc. we needed to bring to get us to USA. We are just over half way there, and have used just on half what we packed.
Internet communication has turned out to be a problem. We organized for Doug’s mobile phone to be used as a modem with the laptop when we had reception near land. It lasted until about one week ago and now Telstra can not work out why it is not working. To be honest Telstra has proved to be much less than helpful. It now means that some of our shore leave time has to be used up looking for internet cafes to check our email and download the blogger. Thanks Telstra!!!!!!!!
I have found out that it is not about doing the tourist thing when shore leave permits that I enjoy most, but it is more to be able to live, work (or should I say, watch everyone else work!) and experience life on board the ship as the officers and crew normally do. Just the way that the day to day workings of the ship have engrossed me is almost too hard to fittingly describe. I am glad it was not just for one month as I know I would have been disappointed and missed out on a lot of the experiences, if that was all that we had decided to do. The month has gone very fast and the days do not seem to drag either. I am enjoying it immensely, much more then I thought I would. The seas, for most of the time, are very calm and it is like being in a plane or a car. It is nice to get ashore for a change, walk the streets, stay in a nice motel and go out for a meal, but if you are not onboard at the Ports, you miss the goings on of the stevedores loading and unloading the ship. Can’t be in two places at once, so we try and do a bit of each. Our experience has been enhanced by the great Captain and Crew we have, they are all friendly and find time to answer any questions about what they are doing, or for that matter, find time just to have a general chat.
We have two other passengers on board, and they certainly add to our experience. After the first two experiences of going ashore with the other passengers, we try and go our own way. All of us like and do different things, so the chat around the dinner table is quite enjoyable when we each add our own tales. The other thing is, if you don’t want to see or talk to them, you can just keep to yourself, and that is not all that hard to do. The Captain is showing very obvious favoritism towards us. He does things like putting the up-to-date shipping dates on our door but not anyone else’s, or giving us up-to-date schedules and not to the others. I guess they have both upset him in some way during the 3 months since they boarded at Houston, and it certainly shows at times.
We normally watch a movie each night, and this was one of our good ideas. We brought 100 DVD’s along (special thanks to Zed for getting them while he was stationed in Malaysia), and this helps to fill in the evenings after dinner (remember, there is no TV or Radio out here). Other than that, when we are on board we read, do puzzles, play on the computer or just walk around and look at everything. We have been in 6 ports, with Shanghai and Dalian being visited twice, and all but one being in China. We are looking forward to spending 3 weeks straight at sea while we cross the Pacific Ocean between Japan and the Panama Canal.
As mentioned earlier, there are two other passengers, and both are Canadian. Don can be a pain, and is very vocally opinionated. He believes that the best country in the world is Canada, and he is entitled to his opinion. What bugs me is his insistence that the USA and all things American are no good, and that all of the worlds troubles have or will be caused by them. It is nice to see patriotism, but he pushes things to the limit. I don’t know if it is intentional or not, but when he starts USA bashing you only want small doses of his company, but on other subjects he is very interesting to talk to. On the other hand, Cam is always good company. He is very intelligent (recently retired doctor of microbiology or similar) and sometimes his topics can be a bit long winded (maybe just over my head) but most of the times they are interesting to listen to and discuss. No real problems with either of them. Doug seems to be having a great time and enjoying all facets of the trip.
DOUG:
I spend a few minutes (hours!) each day jotting down notes about our trip, or touch typing my way through this blogger to put those notes in some sort of order for all to read. In reality, words fail to describe how much I am enjoying myself. I am out of my comfort zone; I am not in control here. This whole ship board thing is something that if the chance presents to you, DO IT!
You all probably realize that I need to know everything about everything, and that I don’t mind a yap if there is a spare ear to grab hold of. This is just the perfect arena for both of these pass times. I have a captive audience to pester for information on the ships workings. I have a captive audience to pester for one-on-one guided tours of whatever takes my fancy on board. I have a captive audience to discuss all worldly events. And also for those who know me, I don’t have to listen to anyone (and I obviously mean misguided souls) rant and rave about how good Collingwood is. It’s heaven!
I have always been up for a debate, especially if I know I am right or am an expert (my perception) on a particular subject. One month on board this ship and I can now sit at a dinner table with others and just listen to how wrong they are and not comment. Gee I have come a long way. Must add that I have a sore shin from Judy’s under table kicks to remind me to shut up!
The other two passengers are somewhat different from ourselves. Both a bit older (Don in his late 70’s, and Cam in his early 60’s), both now single (Don widowed, Cam divorced), and both Canadian. They are good company most of the time, but Don certainly pushes his own thoughts on a lot of subjects, to far for my liking. I have no problem with people having their own political or social views, but I think it is quite rude to expect everyone else to subscribe to them, or for that matter, to try and force them on everyone else. This is the only way for this chap, and as long as Judy keeps kicking me under the table, I guess I will just have to accept that he will just keep on ranting and raving about his own views on all subjects, with narry a word of reply from me. S**T it hurts being gagged! Oh well I suppose it is for the good of all, he really isn’t that bad a fellow when he just engages in general conversation, in fact he has many a good story to tell during these times. Cam, on the other hand, is a really likable fellow at all times. He is very learned, but down to earth as well. I have found discussion with him scintillating to say the least. He sometimes gets a bit too in depth when you cross over into his field of expertise, but generally his worldly travels and experiences make great listening.
Like Judy, I am enjoying myself immensely. The ship board life is a real buzz, and by far and away more exciting than I could have dreamed possible. The Captain, Officers, and Crew are fantastic, and they go out of their way to make us feel at home. And what a home! The cabin is fantastic, and the meals and service is superb (don’t think my GP is going to agree when I get on the scales). To have so many people assist in making this a really enjoyable trip for us, and to do so with out any prompting, makes us feel very special indeed. The shore trips have been great, but I must admit, I really need to be up top supervising the comings and goings of the cargo. I mean, that’s what I came for!
The next 3 months will tell just how well Judy and I can step back from our daily lives without worrying too much about the businesses, but it will also tell if 4 months is too long a voyage to undertake. I don’t think so, things would have to take a dramatic turn for the worst to change my mind!
Now for some news from home.
Rowan is doing lots of flying himself, but at the same time, he seems to be relishing the challenges faced by a 22 y/o managing three busy companies at the same time. He is doing a great job, and we are so proud of him. Just where all of the Queensland aviation industry leads to, time will tell, but we think our baby is on the right track and all will be good. Can’t tell you much about rowans lovely girlfriend Rachel, she is so busy doing a double degree at uni; we don’t always get the news about her as up to date as we should. Knowing Rach, she will be hard at it and only interrupting her studies when rowan visits for Valentines Day.
Stretton seems to have settled into his new position as a Transport Supervisor at an Army Reserve barracks in Ringwood East, Melbourne. He has conned the army again and just had a week diving in Sydney. He needed to be re-qualified/current to dive with other troops if needed during the Commonwealth Games. He is manning our office after he gets home from work in the afternoon, and he is dealing with the accounts and problems that are occasionally occurring. His hand is fully recovered, and he spent a large part of his rehabilitation time helping Rowan in Townsville before moving down to our place. Stretton's girlfriend, Erin, has also moved in to our apartment, and she has found a full time job as a pharmacist in a chemist shop not far from home.
Jayden enjoyed his weeks break in Malaysia whilst in transit to Japan, and from his latest news, all seems great with him over there. He has started work teaching spoken English, and appears to be enjoying the job as well. We hope to catch up with him next week, for the day, when we berth at Kobe. He is in Osaka which is only a 20 minute train ride away from our port.
Briony and Adam have rented their house out, and have moved back into our place to save some money to go to England in early July. Their tickets are booked and paid for (by dad!), and they hope to stay away for a year or two. Good on them, go for it while you are young. Both Briony and Adam are working with Stretton and Erin to keep the caravan parks in check, and it looks like they finally realize how big a business it is!
Just like Rowan, we are so proud of all of our children and their respective partners, and also what they do with their lives and how they help us all of the time.
Thanks kids, we couldn’t be here writing this without you all.
Now back to the blogger.
We awoke this morning to complete silence. No stevedores and no action. Immigration was due on the ship at 10am and we expected to be given permission to go ashore not long after. Stevedores started about 9am and it was all systems go for them. By now some guys had come on board selling CD’s, DVD’s, electrical goods, shoes, and taking orders for anything else that the crew or any of us wanted. This did not last long because immigration came the heavy hand and they had to pack up and leave. We were told at 11am that immigration had cleared us and we did not have to be back on the ship until 4pm on Tuesday. We decided to have lunch and then head for a hotel in the afternoon. Cam thought he would hitch a ride into town with us, so we agreed to meet at 1.00 at the top of the gangway. Things went down hill from here! As this was a navy port, lots of submarines and other navy ships etc, the Chinese had placed a soldier in a portable guard house beside our ship. It was his job to check everyone that came and went. There was just no way that he was letting us ashore within a shore pass. As we are not crew we do not get issued a shore pass and only show our passports when needed. Not good enough for this guy. Our driver who was a regular attendee at Rickmars ships in this port, lent the soldier his phone to ring his superiors. Still no go. We went back onboard and spoke to the captain, and he was incensed. He in turn spoke to the supercargo, who in turn spoke to the agent, and all agreed that we did not need shore passes. The agent said he would come down and try and sort it out. Three hours later, same guard, same phone call, same passports, everything is ok now and off we went.
The driver took us to the 5 star (in China!) Shangri-La Hotel, about 15km from the ship, where we booked in for two nights. After we got settled in, we grabbed a taxi and headed to our favorite Carrefour shop to get a few things for ourselves. These shops are popping up everywhere in China. We came back to the hotel and had an absolutely superb meal in one of the hotel Restaurants. They certainly know how to make Peking duck over here.
The bed beckoned.
MONDAY 13TH FEBRUARY 2006
After a good night’s sleep and a good breakfast we decided we would catch a bus into the old town and walk the sights. “No way” said the concierge; all the buses are only in Chinese so best you get a taxi. This we did and duly arrived in the main street of old Qingdao. It was freezing cold and quite foggy but we were determined to take in what we could. Qingdao is one of Chinas most popular summer destinations with several swimming beaches. We headed down the main street to the No. 6 bathing beach and walked out on a pier to the Huilan Pagoda. This Pagoda is the model for the logo of famous Tsingtao Beer. There was hundreds of people in the area and the tide was so far out the beach was just rocks. There were people all over the rocks chipping off every shell fish they could find. Sea fish is the go in Qingdao. We headed along the breakwater to some of the older areas of the town, and just generally enjoyed mixing in with the people going about their business. Qingdao has a strong German influence and this is evident in a lot of the architecture. After walking the town for around 2 hours we headed back down to the break water and ran into the only other Caucasian in the place. There was Cam, camera in hand again. After a yap we left him and headed to the Tianhou Temple, which is dedicated the sailors and the sea. Then to the Qingdao Yong Binguan, the former Governors Residence and a replica of a Germany Palace. We decided we would walk all the way back to the hotel along the breakwater even though it was so cold our fingers, toes, nose, etc were ready to fall off. Low and behold, as we approach the No. 1 Beach here were three or four older guys in their Speedos going for a swim in the almost frozen ocean. Boy did we feel cold then. By the time we reached our hotel we had walked somewhere between 20 to 25 k and our feet needed a rest. We headed for the lobby café shop for coffee and an afternoon snack. This was followed with another trip to Carrefour. This time we walked there and walked back. It wasn’t too far, only about 2k. Jayden needed some shirts, ties, etc and we thought we could get them at a reasonable price for him here. We arrived back at our hotel and headed for the business centre to catch up on some work and other emails.
After this it was room service and a sleep.
One thing that we have not mentioned is that Qingdao is the location of the sailing events for the 2008 Olympic Games. They have started to print some signs and tourist books for this (think we got the first tourist book – lots of English descriptions but map in Chinese!) but in general terms English is not well spoken in this town. The taxi has a set minimum fee of 7 yuan but there is no way westerners know this as it is only written in Chinese characters. Knowing the Chinese as we now do, we are sure they will pull it together in time.
TUESDAY 14TH FEBRUARY 2006
Good nights sleep and big breaky again. Another session in the business centre and we were ready to continue our journey. We took a taxi to the Tsingtao Brewery to see their beer museum. This was much better than we could have anticipated as they had displays covering more than 100 years of their history. Part of the way through the tour we were handed a glass of beer each and at the end we finished in a beer hall where they sat us down to a jug of beer and two boxed souvenir glasses. While we sucked on the beers two lads who had just taken the same tour were seated, with their jug of beer, behind us. It did not take long to work out that they where from the land of OZ. One was from Brisbane and the other from Adelaide and they had been teaching spoken English to the Chinese for the past 6 months on a volunteer basis. They had just gained 6 month paid contracts to teach in Dalian. We swapped stories for quite awhile.
We headed back to the ship and arrived at about 3pm. On arrival we were told that shore leave had been extended until 8am tomorrow morning. This time was given by the agent but the captain questioned this as they had taken 2 and half days to load just half of the cargo and certainly were not going to do the rest in just over half a day.
Most of the cargo from this port was pipes bound for New Orleans and they do take a long time to load these small bundles.
Dinner was interesting on the ship tonight, as all us passengers had gone our separate ways, we all had different stories to tell. Spent a while up top watching the stevedores but cold got the better of us and we headed off to watch a movie and then bed.
WEDNESDAY 15TH FEBRUARY 2006
By the time we got to breakfast we were told that shore leave had now been extended until 3pm today, and the ship was due to sail at 6pm. Immigration had requested that our passports be in their hands 3 hours prior to sailing for checking.
Cam had told us about a shop that sold globes of the world on stands that were quite neat, so Cam and us got the driver to take us to this shop. The driver did some negations for us and now we have a fancy globe of the world to bore everyone with back on Oz. We can’t wait to show you where we have been! We took the globe back to the ship and the driver waited while it was put in storage in our cabin. We headed back into town and just started to walk again. Well this turned out to be one of those special days that you get when traveling. In the back streets we found kerb side vendors, one of which was a boot maker who took minutes to fix Judy’s shoe and only charged 2 Yuan (32 cents). Around the corner from him, we came across the only dirty street we had seen Qingdao. It was muddy and full of rubbish, but not as much rubbish as it was full of people. It was an awesome street. It was a genuine Chinese food market street. We walked, talked and photographed, and even purchased pineapples, strawberries and bread rolls. This street and all those around it for many blocks was a special experience we will not forget. It was good to see butchers cutting up their meat on the street and at the same time playing with their dogs that were picking up the scraps. It was good to see oyster’s fresh out of the sea laying on the muddy pavement before being cleaned for sale. It was just superb. We headed back to the ship on foot and arrived 15 minutes before shore leave was due to finish. Immigration came and went and we set sail at 5.15, 45 minutes early, and that is a first. We should arrive in Dalian at 9am tomorrow morning and go straight into our berth. That remains to be seen!
At dinner we sensed that there was about to be a crew revolt, as half the crew where due to finish there 9 month contracts and leave the vessel in Japan, and it appeared this was not going to happen. The problem was in Japan they had only been on board for 8 and a half months but if they stayed on board until the USA, it would be a week and a bit over the 9 month contract. You have to remember these guys work 7 days of the week for 9 months and are desperate to go home by this time. We will just have to see what transpires in the next few days; maybe we will have “Mutiny on the Jakarta”.
Movie and bed.
THURSDAY 16TH FEBRUARY 2006
We decided to skip early breakfast and have our own tucker in our cabin mid morning. Sometimes it is better this way, as we just get to do our own thing and chill out.
We headed for the bridge to see what the latest was with our arrival and the captain told us that we where just about to anchor. It was now around 10am and our direct entry had obviously been changed. The pilot was due at 11am to take us to our berth. This did not happen. The next call was 12.20pm, this also did not happen. At 2pm we finally got underway. It was a very tight berth and extremely windy. We had two tugs working very hard to maneuver us into our spot. We tried to watch it from the pilot deck (just realized I have been calling this E deck, and that is not correct) but the very strong winds were blowing from Siberia, and it was more cold than you could possible imagine. Anyway between hiding out of the wind in the upstairs bar room and sneaking out to take the occasional photographs we managed to tough it out and watch the stevedores lift and place the one piece we had called in to collect. This piece of cargo weighted 86 tonnes and was delivered on a low loader. It was huge but not as huge as the banter and pantomime put on by the dozen plus stevedores doing the job. You can’t help but laugh until your sides hurt listening to, and watching these guys. We were due to leave straight after loading, but once again plans changed, and it was after 7pm before we were underway. Our next stop is Masan in Korea and we should drop anchor there sometime Saturday morning.
Back to the expected mutiny, Freddie the steward, arrived to freshen up our cabin around 10.20a.m, and it was obvious that he was the bearer of good news. He was singing and as chirpy as could be. Word had come through that the half of the crew that was changing would leave the ship at Kobe in Japan. We really feel for these guys as it must be hard to be away from your family for so long, and in Freddie’s case he was going home to see his new son born mid December last year. All is now well.

FRIDAY 17TH FEBRUARY 2006
Well we rocked and rolled, bumped and thumped, all night long. The 2am piddle really needs some concentration! Thank goodness there is a handrail beside the dunny. Not to hard to sleep during the night, but we certainly moved around in our beds. It is not uncomfortable but certainly a different sensation that needs to be experienced to be understood.
We did not do much in the morning, just read and bludged, and there was still a fair amount of rocking and rolling going on.
As we finished lunch the captain told us that our arrival time in Masan was at 2am, but that we would have to anchor until 5am as the pilot did not start work until then. We will soon see if Korea is as slack with their times as China was. We are due to be in port until Sunday morning, when we head for Japan.
One other snippet was that, due to all the stuffing around in Chinese ports, the agent had requested that the captain make full speed all the way to the USA. In effect this meant another 5 to 6 revolutions per minute of our huge propeller. This may not seem much but to do this requires burning an addition 6 tonnes of engine fuel a day. At US$250 per ton for 20 days it certainly burns US$30,000 pretty easy.
Not much more to add for today except I did 15 laps of the deck to burn up some of the far too many extra calories I have been eating. Judy had a nap as she had felt a bit lethargic all day. It is now 8.30p.m. And we are still rocking and rolling so a funny sleep again tonight. One extra thing is that we have to advance our clocks by one hour tonight so that means even less sleep. Thank goodness we are on holiday.

Monday, February 13, 2006

TUESDAY 7TH FEBRUARY 2006

We spent the night tossing and turning due the swell, and when it was time to go for breakfast, we both said that we could have done with another hour or six in bed as we didn’t really get much sleep during the night. We will fix that soon, a nice king size bed in a posh hotel waits, just not sure when or for how long. Don’t get the wrong impression here though, whilst we do only have single beds in our cabin, they are reasonably comfortable. Actually, if it was a bit rough or there was some swell rolling the ship, it would be quite difficult to sleep in a double bed together.

At breakfast, the latest gossip was for a 3.30pm pick up of Pilot, thus arriving to berth at 8pm. We didn’t do much during the morning, just read and relaxed. After lunch, we headed to the Bridge, as we had got under way at around 1.30pm, and we thought we might be up there to watch the Pilot board when we reached the pilot station around an hour to an hour and a half later. We were now getting into much calmer waters, and the sun was shining all be it through a fairly thick fog. The Pilot boarded at around 2.45pm, and we decided to stay where we were and observe our entrance to the Yangtze River from the Bridge. It was a slow trip in, and we joined a line of probably 10 or more ships, all with Pilots, heading into port. The Pilot told the Captain that as it was so busy, we may have to anchor in the Yangtze for an hour, as a ship was still in our berth. I suppose we could have guessed that all was going to well to think that it would continue and have us arriving ahead of the Plan C schedule. We anchored in one of the inner anchorages around 5.30pm. There are lots of anchorages once inside the delta of the river and our Captain told us they can accommodate 1000 vessels of various sizes here. We headed down to our cabin for a coldie, and wondered if we would ever get into Shanghai tonight at this rate. Dinner was followed by another Bridge visit, and we weighed anchor around 7.15pm for the final section of the journey to our berth. To see how they handle a ship of this size in a river crowded with craft of all shapes and sizes, is inspiring to say the least. Whilst all vessels have certain requirements in respect to lighting at night, and direction of travel, passing etc, it seems that Chinese logic may some times not quite be in sync with the rest of the maritime world. They came at us in all manner of craft, some legally lit, and others not so legally lit. They came from the stern, the bow, port and starboard. It was terrific to watch. You have to appreciate that this vessel is 193 meters long 28 meters wide and somewhere around 35,000 tonnes at present, and you just don’t turn or stop in an instant. Despite our massive presence, the smallest of fishing boats still expect to head wherever, whenever they felt like it, and the sharp eyes of the Pilot, Captain, First and Third Officers, Able Bodied Seaman, and of course…….. Judy and Doug ensured we made it to our berth by 9.00pm.

We had no sooner arrived than the ants arrived as well. There must have been 30 Stevedores, a Supercargo (the guy who says what goes where), a Ships Agent, and an Immigration Officer charging up the gang way. While this is happening, 2 huge barges loaded with cargo tie up on the port side and trucks and dollies full of other pieces of cargo lined the wharf under our cranes. The logistics of these operations is superb. They converge on the ship as if there is no tomorrow, and when they start, it appears they are right.

We watched for a while, and then headed off to bed. No chance of a deep sleep tonight though, too much noise and way too much to look at out of our window.


WEDNESDAY 8TH FEBRUARY 2006

As predicted, very little sleep, but it doesn’t seem to cause us too much grief, it is so interesting to see, and that’s why we came on this voyage. Anyone can be conventional and go on a cruise ship, we wanted to be different and see the sea from a seaman’s perspective. It is awesome, but I guess it’s not the same view as the crew gets really, they have to work!

At breakfast we are told we have shore leave until 4pm tomorrow, so we are heading for a hotel in the city centre again. We agreed to meet Cam in the ships office at 10am, and we will share a taxi from the wharf to town. As we had now decided to stay at the Marriot Hotel, and Cam wanted to go to the Peoples Square right next to the hotel, we headed straight for there. Cam went to the concierge to get some tourist info, and then headed off on his own. Judy and I had to go to the 38th level to book in, and then we were given a room on the 54th floor. You can just imagine the view! Shanghai is a large city of 6,341 sq kms, and has a population of around 20,000,000 people. High rise is the operative word here, with over 2,000 building over 20 floors or more in height. To see it from the 54th floor of a building gives a whole new meaning to urban sprawl. We settled in, and I had a coldie while I caught up on the world news on CNN. Well USA news really, but it was something at least. Judy headed for the Business Centre to open up the latest work emails, as well as download the latest entries for this blogger. She found time to see the Concierge whilst there and now I find out we are going to the circus tonight. Chinese acrobats are a breed of their own. No nets and death defying feats are the norm, so we are looking forward to this evening’s performance.

We filled in the rest of the day wandering some of the streets of the city we hadn’t been in before. We came across the former residence of Sun Yat-sen, the original leader of the Nationalist Party in China. Cracked it in time for a guided tour and this included an insight into his life and times in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, well worth the visit. We walked down a variety of back streets and found areas where all of the shops are devoted to the one theme. We found what we named, “Pajama Street”, and it’s not hard to work out what they sold. We found “Music Street”, and it was full of shops selling instruments, and more pianos than we have seen in total in our lives. We found “Hang the weeks meat out the window street”, and I suppose the refrigerator salesman hasn’t made it there yet. Have to add, the temperature would be warmer in a fridge anyway, it was -2ºC outside in the street. All in all, Shanghai is a delightful place to visit (8 times now!), and anyone who feels they would like a gander at China would be well advised to start here. It is not as much a culture shock as you will experience in other cities and towns, but be warned, it aint OZ that’s for sure!

We decided against dinner, and headed off in a taxi for the circus at 6.45pm. We were lucky enough to be able to obtain VIP seats, right in the middle and 4 rows from the arena. Absolutely perfect viewing and well worth the money. As I said earlier, Chinese Acrobats are a cut above the rest, and these people were absolutely superb. Never have we seen anything that even comes close to this performance, and we have seen plenty over the years. Death defying is an understatement; impossible would be a better description. The performance was in a large building obviously made for circus style performances. The seats were plush, the place was heated, and the lighting and effects that went with the whole shebang made for a really enjoyable evening. The show was called ERA Intersection of time, and depicted the past, present and future. It was sponsored by the USA to the tune of US$10,000,000, and I would think it will tour the world. A word of advice, DON’T miss it!

Back to the hotel, and a room service dinner was the order of the night. Then sleep beckoned, but no way could we shut the view out, the city lights were like fairyland and just the tonic to nod off too.


THURSDAY 9TH FEBRUARY 2006

After a late start and no breaky (too much room service last night), we checked out about 11am and headed off for a stroll again. It wasn’t as cold as yesterday, probably around 3ºC, so it was quite enjoyable walking in the sun. We went looking for a market we had read about, and knew it was about 1½k away. I had orientated my street map with the view from the 54th floor before we left the hotel, so I thought I might have had a surprise up my sleeve for Judy if what I got a glimpse from up there proved to be correct. From the height of our room, I had nutted out a meandering track to follow over to the area that we knew the market was in. As we left the hotel, we turned directly away from the populated areas of the city, and followed a winding street into an old housing area. It was terrific, well terrific if you don’t mind being the only westerners in an area that obviously rarely sees people like us. As we walked, we got the once over by all and sundry, but we've been in this situation before and we just trundled off amongst the locals soaking up their lifestyle as we went. One of the streets was obviously “Pet Shop Street” and that was a sight to behold. I have to say, there are not a lot of mammals for sale in these areas, and I will leave it to your imagination to work out why. There were lots of small birds and fish for sale, together with the accessories that go with this style of pets. Great to see.

We then went to Haagen-Dazs ice-cream shop and had a romantic Valentines Day ice cream fondue, together with heart shaped ice-creams, cakes and fruit. I know it is early, but we will be at sea on the 14th, so the romantic bit had to happen when we could enjoy it. We found the market a little later, and was this a culture shock! We have been in all sorts of markets in all sorts of places, but this was the pushiest of all time. There were touts trying to get us to go with them for bargains. There were stall holders grabbing at our arms and clothes to get our attention directed their way. There were police and security all over the place and signs warning of touts and pick pockets. And there were PA announcements blaring out warnings of the crime in the area. It was terrific! I have to admit, Judy did chastise me for loosing my cool early in the piece when I suggested to a group of touts that they might like to go and fornicate amongst themselves (which I think they did as I didn’t get any more angst from them). We didn’t feel threatened really, the only problem I perceived was that I had a back pack on, a camera and mobile phone in my pocket, and a money belt around my neck, and it was a little off pitting trying to ensure all of these things stayed on my person while we pushed our way through the crowd. Once we got into the swing of the shopping, all thoughts of theft disappeared; it was us doing the thieving! We bargained like never before, and some of the prices we paid were criminal. It’s all part of the game.

We had our fill of the market, and caught a taxi back to the ship. This time we were armed with very precise directions in very clear Chinese writing. We even had a hand drawn map also with Chinese characters on it, so our driver got us back in record time.

The ship had been turned around in our absence as our 2 large cranes (320 tonne SWL each) were needed for some heavy lifts from the wharf side. This was after they were needed to unload the barges that pulled along side 2 nights before. We were welcomed back, as usual, by one of the AB’s standing guard at the head of the gangway. We then headed to our cabin to unpack and grab a coffee, but I knew I wouldn’t be there for long, there was some supervision required up on E Deck, what with all of these cargo movements going on, they must need me.

I marched from side to side for over 2 hours, and not a piece of equipment or packing crate got on board without me passing my eye over it. My curiosity never ceases to wane there is so much going on boredom is not an option for me. Judy came up later, she had been having a nap, but when she felt my arms and face, almost blue with cold by now, my work period was quickly terminated. Still, you can check things out through the cabin windows, so if anything is amiss on deck, I will notice it pretty quick and get it sorted.

After dinner we watched our nightly movie, but not before I had my weekly Thursday night dose of “American Chopper”. Only one episode left to watch, so withdrawal symptoms until we get to the USA and I can stock up.

Bed followed, but restless night again with all the cargo loading noise and curiosity forcing me to get out of bed for a look see too many times.


FRIDAY 10TH FEBRUARY 2006

Not a bad night’s sleep, with just a few noises as some of the heavier pieces of cargo hit the deck. Of course, one of the cranes (100 tonne SWL) is tied up into a cradle about 3 metres from my head, so when it went thump into its spot, I was woken up. It was about 6am, so I just dozed until I thought it time to wake Judy for breaky.

We were told that the Pilot was due at 8am, and we would be on our way to Quingdao, some 360 miles away, shortly after. Arrival was expected to be about 8am Saturday. Straight after we ate, we headed for the Bridge to observe the traffic (and near misses, one oh so close!) as we headed down stream in the Huangpu River, and then out into the Yangtze and its delta. The Pilot jumped ship around 12.45pm, and we were off and running at a great rate of knots. Dead flat seas, hardly any wind, and even a touch of sunshine. It was time for our walk, so both of us put on a light coat and headed around the deck. Bad move, it may have been alright inside, but after 15 minutes on deck, it was freezing. Judy headed back to our cabin, but I had to walk some of the food off, and spent another 50minutes trundling around the main deck. I gave up due to the cold, so the rest of the arvo was spent reading and dozing. I was at the computer when the cabin telephone rang, and it was the 3rd Officer, Ferdinand calling to tell me there would be a life boat alarm soon, but to ignore it, as it only concerned the crew. I couldn’t resist the opportunity to get a few photos of the crew at the muster station, so I took the camera to E Deck to see if I could capture some good shots. Well I scored, and it was a crack up! I was 3 decks and directly above the muster station and I had a bird’s eye view of ensuing proceedings. After all of the crew (all except the Captain, Chief Engineer and an AB on the Bridge) were accounted for, the Chief Officer went to each of them and checked that they had a light on their life jacket, and that it was capable of being operational. One of the Oilers decided to play with his light, and sure enough, it came on. He was terrified as this was not supposed to happen until the jacket came into contact with water, so just how he did activate it remains a mystery at this stage. Well he immediately put his hand over the light which is about breast height when the jacket is done up correctly. He was not going to let the Chief or for that matter, anyone, become aware of his predicament. For the next 25 minutes that I was able to see him from above, he did not remove his hand from his chest other than to have a sheltered peak to see if it was still flashing. He tried to mask his stuff up by crossing both hands across his chest for a while, but just imagine how uncomfortable that not only would be, but uncomfortable looking it was as well. The poor bloke was right in the Chiefs line of sight as they discussed and demonstrated the operation of the small davit that launched the other life boat, and there was no way he could remove his hands to help with the launching procedure demo. I spoke to the Steward after dinner, and asked him who the fellow was that stood in spot number 20 during drills, as whilst I knew it was an Oiler; I didn’t know which one as he was so heavily disguised by jackets, coveralls and a helmet. Freddie knew what I was onto straight away, and we laughed and laughed about the poor buggers troubles. Freddie had picked it up during the drill, and let him suffer all the way. I will find out about how it was activated, and also the outcome, in due course.

I followed the photo shoot with a 45minute curiosity trip to the Bridge, and I spent the entire time with the captain as his captive audience. Maybe I should have said he was my captive audience, as I knew I had him on my terms, and I knew he loved to tell me about all of the workings and goings on, on his ship if prompted, and I was prompting. I stayed until dark at 6pm, and I am sure I will be back for another dose tomorrow, he is such an informative and likable guy, and I really enjoy my time with him.

After dinner it was the usual movie, then off to bed in smooth sailing conditions. Smooth that is, if you discount the constant rattles and vibration caused by the engine, but that’s freighter travel I suppose.


SATURDAY 11TH FEBRUARY, 2006

We woke up when the ship stopped to anchor at about 6.30am. The sudden change from vibration to the max to complete calm, works better than an alarm clock. It was too early to go down for breaky, so we dozed until 7.30am. At breakfast we were told that the ship had been cleared for a direct entry to our berth, Plan A, and as such we had increased speed to meet the Pilot. Not long after, another call came through to say we now had to anchor for about an hour. By the time the second call came through the ship had passed the designated anchorage and then had to slow to almost a complete stop and execute a 180º turn to get back to the correct anchorage, and wait until around 8am for the Pilot. Plan B was now in force, but there was not a lot of confidence in it being the final state of the game. Well Plan B lasted until the preset time of 8am, and then things looked good for Plan C, wait until we got a call from the Pilot.

We just lolled about until 11am, and then both Judy and I had a walk around the deck to see if all was well. It was one of those walks of discovery, and we poked our heads into every space we could, wanting to see what had changed from our last gander, or just to see what was supposed to go on that space. We headed back to the superstructure and poked our heads into the ships office to see what the chief Officer was up too, and then we went into the crew Recreation Room to check it out. The Captain caught us poking around in the rec room, and it wasn’t long before he had engaged us in conversation again. We got the whole story of how the previous crew had removed most of the tables in the room so as to give themselves more space. They had a dartboard, table tennis table, large TV and DVD player, a massive Karaoke player hooked into equally massive speakers, a guitar and a key board. They sure had enough to keep themselves occupied, but I guess after a tour of duty lasting 9 months, even this room and its contents would get pretty boring. It was now midday, so off to A Deck for lunch, once again tasty and filling. Well I thought so, but Judy reneged on the squid again and made do with cold meat, salad and potatoes.

During lunch the Captain told us we were going to stay at anchor until the fog lifted a little, and then the Pilot would board and we would be on our way to port. Plan C looking a little shaky as the fog was pretty thick still. After lunch I had a snooze, and then at about 3pm, I headed of for a few laps of the deck. It was not as cold as we had been experiencing for the last few weeks, so I was really enjoying the fresh air. I had the deck to myself for an hour, and then two of the OS (Ordinary Seamen) started a bit of a sweep and clean up on the starboard side. I stopped and chatted to them for about 10 minutes, and found out about their thoughts on being at sea, and how much they missed their respective families. They both told me that the money they made at sea, whilst exceptionally good when compared to what they could make at home, just didn’t seem to go as far as it used too. The prices had risen dramatically in their country, but their wages had changed very little in the last few years. I got the feeling that they were being exploited, but had little choice to change their situation now that they were on the ships. If, they could get work ashore, they certainly couldn't exist on the wages they would get, as their lifestyles had changed dramatically since being at sea. I was told that from early teens, they all yearned to go to sea, to see the world, and make big bucks. Now married with families; the glamour had gone along with the big bucks. One of the guys put it all in perspective when he said, “my companion here, and I, spend 9 months together on this ship, but when we go home to our families we get 2 – 3 months at best with them” I guess each to their own, but it does seem harsh when the wages now don’t seem to compensate for the disadvantages that go with the life of a seaman.

Well by the time I had done a few more laps, the fog seemed to be getting thicker, so Plan C was certainly now looking real shaky. Dinner came around (6pm), and just as we sat down to a feed of so called, Australian Fish (cod done in the oven with peppers, butter, onion and white wine) with Bok Choy Au Gratin and boiled spuds, we felt the stirrings of the engine, and we were up anchor and away. Plan D was in force, stuff the fog lets go into port anyway! The Pilot came on board about 20 minutes later and we knew this was the plan we should have been on from the start. We finished dinner and headed for the Bridge just in time to see the ship pull alongside our berth. Only 1 tug this time, and we were using our bow thrusters to assist in docking. We watched until we were tied up to the bollards, then we headed to our abode for the night. Not for long though, curiosity got the better of me, and I donned the thin coat and headed for the outside E Deck. I wanted to check out the antics of the Chinese on the wharf, and have a bit of a look see at the surrounds. There was this white stuff on the ground near all the stacks of cargo on the wharf, and when I started to shiver and shake I put 2 & 2 together and realized snow does make it too cold to stay outside for long!

It was a quiet night as the stevedores did not do any loading or unloading for some reason. Our crew prepared all of our cranes for them, and then nothing else happened.

Sleep………….

Tuesday, February 07, 2006




THURSDAY 2ND FEBRUARY 2006

We headed down for breakfast about 7.30am. It is our own call whether we go for meals or not, but if we do;
· Breakfast – 7.30 – 8.30am
· Lunch – 12.00 – 1.00pm
· Dinner – 6.00 – 7.00pm
Most days we try and go on time, especially for lunch as the noon pips ring out over the ships public address, and we know it’s time for food. It’s not that we need the nourishment, the food is plentiful but the rate you burn it off is not commensurate with the intake. Oh well, just have to watch the waist band and keep up the constitutional walks in the arvo. One of the inherent problems is the snacking we have found ourselves doing. Lollies are sitting on the coffee table in a bowl, right beside the fruit. Guess what seems to win? If we walk the ten steps to the lounge on our deck, there is an air pot always on the boil and a bickie tin right beside it. Bloody hard to resist these German delights, and a couple always seem to come back with the coffee cups. We should stick to brewing the coffee in our cabin, but we have tried to save the good coffee for the early wakeups, and use Mr. Rickmers for the rest of the day.

After breakfast we ventured to the bridge and timed it just right for the arrival of our pilot. He was a guy of about 50 years of age, and when he reached the top of the bridge stairs he was relay huffing and puffing. Give him his due, he had just climbed a rope ladder for about 6 meters, and then 7 flights of stairs, but he was doing it hard. All was revealed about 10 minutes later when he asked the Captains permission to smoke! Well in the next hour he had 4 cups of tea, 4 smokes and 3 wee’s. As we got to our berth he stated that he would have to have the door beside the 2 chairs Judy and I were sitting on opened. This was no problem we responded. WRONG! Bloody freezing, about minus 6ºC and a wind chill to boot. Anyway, we survived the cold, but the Pilot and Captain didn’t seem to be best of friends during the berthing. Apparently there was disagreement over the speed and distance from a berthed vessel that caused our Captain a bit of concern, but in the end, with them both giving orders and a lot of maneuvering by the 2 tugs that were assisting, we tied up to the wharf. It was a tight squeeze though, about 6 meters clear on the aft end, and similar at the bow.

The Captain told us a very interesting thing just prior to the arrival of the pilot. As it was the New Year holiday, there were no fishing boats to contend with on our arrival. Normally he would have had to keep a very sharp lookout so as to avoid collision/s with the fishing fleet working the seas in this area. He told us it was normal to have anywhere up to 2,500 boats bobbing around in this area, and their understanding of seamanship and right of way was sometimes loosely interpreted. Certainly they all displayed lights at night, but the color and positioning of said lights were also questionable. He was right about the holiday though, not a fishing boat to be seen.

We met the ships agent straight after lunch, and he gave us and our fellow passengers a couple of options for tours etc. We decided to head into Tianjin today, and opt for a Beijing/Great Wall tour tomorrow. Tianjin was about 1.30 minute drive, and the agent had arranged for a driver and car to take us and wait to bring us back. Well our driver had a slight command of English, but boy could he laugh. It was in factious and he was just a crack up. He drove like a man possessed, spent most of the time either making or receiving calls, and spoke so loud the person on the other end of the call probably didn’t need the phone within anything closer than a foot from their ear. He took us to the recently re-constructed Ancient Culture street, and this street depicted life as it was in china many moons ago. In the same area was an ancient Confucius Temple. It was right slap bang in the middle of the New Years holiday, so the temple was pretty crowded. By the time we had walked the street, the cold was really biting into us. Don’t know the actual temperature, but we had never experienced anything this cold so I guess it was below freezing. We headed for a large shopping mall and found our old favorite, Carrefour, the shop you seem to be able to find all over Asia and can buy almost what ever you want. Well we went there on a mission, more long johns! Got what we wanted then detoured via the other old favorite, McDonalds. Yeh something’s don’t change, and we both knew we could point at the order sheet, it would be edible, and the coffee would be red hot. Not disappointed, we spent another 20 m minutes eating the usual fare and warming ourselves up.

We braved the cold, and walked back to where we had left our driver, and after we waited for the older of our fellow passengers, Don, to get back a little late again, we headed back to the ship. Well not quite direct. Don told our driver he needed some “fine dining” for his supper, and whilst Judy and I weren’t all that hungry, we really had to go along.

Well I need to paint a picture here. Of all the people I have met in my life, this character, Don, is unique. He is very self opinionated and seems to have a view on most subjects, particularly in relation to health and the environment. He does adopt an attitude where he tends to portray the view that he is an authority on a lot of subjects (don’t you smart a***s start thinking I am looking in a mirror when I say this!), but after talking and listening to him, he quite obviously reads a lot, and forms his assertive debating skills based on his prolific readings. He is easily led into situations of debate, and these can be as simple as discussions on food, customer service, cigarettes, plastic food wrap, white sugar, etc etc, the list goes on! Cam, his fellow Canadian appears, to at times, to be at his wits end. He has had this fellow’s views and ramblings for 2½ months, and it isn’t hard to see how this is playing on his mind most times. It is easy for Judy and me as we have each other to keep ourselves sane, but I don’t think Don and Cam will be pen friends when they get back to Canada!

Poor old Don, he simply cannot accept that things are different in China, and really doesn’t seem to understand Chinese culture at all. Obviously he is having trouble dealing with the persistent badgering you get from street hawkers, and he just can’t deal with their systems (or lack of systems) at all. You have to know China to appreciate their traffic flow and pedestrian habits. There is no system for either, it’s just pot luck, but if you do as they do, you just might survive to explore another day. Well having said all of this, he is pretty good company if you can keep a handle on the flow of the conversation. He is around 75y/o and has gathered a lot of general knowledge, so most times; he is alright to get into a sensible conversation with as long as you know when to bail out.

Well this was one of those times we should have bailed out!

First call at a fancy restaurant (remember this is china and it is a seaside port), and he asks as we enter, "Is this a smoking restaurant?” you guessed it, it is and did he stack a turn on. Next stop, after we explained to our driver that he wouldn’t go into a smoking restaurant, sees us in the foyer a real large hotel restaurant. We all head to the loo as we figured it might be clean here as it was part of a large hotel. Then of to the rear to find the food. Shock, horror, it’s a pick your own and we will cook it for you. There were all sorts of gill fish, and all sorts of shell fish. There were sea anemones, sea cucumbers, sea snails and more. But the “coup de gras”, MONKEY! Yeh, live monkeys in a cage, you just picked the one and it was yours. Well I don’t remember the name of the show, but I do remember what happened to the monkey when the top of his head poked through the hole in the table top, and I know my mum used to cook the brains first! Not for this black duck. They had all of there sample dishes laid out on a bed of ice, and each plate was covered in cling wrap so you could see. The smell of fish was overpowering, and even Judy and I were having second thoughts. Well our Don was almost distraught by this stage, “this was not fine dining!” he bleated. I’ve got to say, for our driver and the other customers in this place, this was fine dining, and Don just didn’t realize he was in China not Canada!

Back into the car, and off we go to take 3. Judy and I made up our minds that this was it, and no more embarrassing scenes would be tolerated by these 2 Aussies. We walked in, and similar to the last place, the sample meals were laid out, and the fish were still swimming in the tanks. We selected duck, beef, pork, rice, vegetables and dumplings, and we had them served as a banquet. Well the old bugger loved it, and certainly had his fill. The lady of the house, obviously unaccustomed to having 4 westerners in her restaurant, gave us complimentary “Moon Cakes”, a Chinese delicacy not unlike a donut but a bit like a cross between these and dumplings, to finish the meal. They were very tasty, but a bit on the chewy side. One point I forgot, Cam and I were the only ones who enjoyed the pork. Judy had a piece and nearly did a double take. It was hotter than Hades, and neither of us could work out what they had used to spice it up, but high octane fuel would be a distant second to it. It was superb, and god help us tomorrow.

Back into the car, and we headed back to the ship. Although we invited and paid for our driver to dine with us, we organized a doggy bag for what was left for him to take home to his family. A friend for life at this stage. That is until Don saw him smoking outside, and the other streak came out in him again. At some point during the trip back he said “This is my holiday and I won’t have it compromised by anyone”. What he was on about none of us knew, excepting that as far as he was concerned we should not have to put up with cigarettes, bad drivers, cars ignoring him on painted pedestrian crossings, people not understanding English in the spoken form, or when he wrote things in his note pad and showed it to them expecting understanding. Boy does he need to travel in Asia more often.

We arrived back to the ship and headed straight to bed. We had arranged for a 7am pick up for tomorrows tour, and none of us wanted to sleep in.

Just an aside before I close for today, the gang plank is progressively getting further from the wharf every time we berth in China. This time we had to get to the step at the bottom, then try and turn at right angles and step up onto the wharf without slipping down between the ship and the wharf. You all know Judy has not got a head for heights, and does not like to have to look down through any steps or ladders. She is not coping with this all that well, but she manages to put on a brave face. I add, the last step has no hand or guard rail, and if you don’t step right, you are in the drink!




FRIDAY 3RD FEBRUARY 2006

Ready for a big day, we headed down the gangplank at 6.55am. Well we weren’t disappointed because the fireworks started as soon as we got in the car. Our driver from yesterday had organized a slightly larger car for us (turns out it was his brother), but as we got in, Don, who was getting into the front seat, saw that the driver was smoking a cigarette. The antics were something to behold. Judy, Cam and I were happy to go with the flow, but not Don. He yelled at the driver “Put the damn cigarette out” over and over. The driver refused, and even though his brother was trying to pacify the situation, it was all going down hill. The driver using hand gestures, told us to get out. His brother with broken English, said stay there. Don with yelling and gesturing was intent on not getting in at all. Then it blew up. The old bugger stood back and slammed the door that hard I thought the whole car would fall apart! Well that pretty well sealed the deal, out we got and into the little car from yesterday once more. With a trip of some 3 hours each way, the back seat was not going to be real comfy for Judy, Cam and I. This car was about the size of a small four seater in Oz, and certainly not big enough for this trip. We took off at a great rate of knots, but as quick as our driver was behind the wheel, he was quicker on the mobile telephone. Don was in quite vocal form saying he did not have to put up with things not to his liking, and about the same time Judy made it known that “this is China, get over it”. I couldn’t help myself, I had to throw in the quote he had made yesterday about “This is my holiday and I won’t have it compromised by anyone”, but I added that “this was our holiday too, and we don’t want it compromised either”. Well it worked, it shut him up and we all moved on. We did not know who the driver was calling, but it was a very loud, and appeared to be, a very heated conversation. About 5k's down the road he pulls over and announces he has a non smoking driver and a bigger car, and he will be here in a few seconds. Sure enough, bigger car (VW Passat style) stops behind us and we are invited to get in. Driver asked that Cam sit in front, and the other 3 of us in the back. You have probably worked it out by now, same driver as before, just no cigarette in hand. Don did not seem to be aware of the subterfuge, so off we went.

The trip was interesting and we could see that the Olympic Games were certainly foremost in Chinese minds at government levels. The roads were exceptional, the signs readable and no trace of the old china was to be seen beside the expressways. Don’t know what they have done with all the buildings, but there has been a major demolition and reconstruction effort going on. Where they have left the older houses and buildings, they have planted thousands and thousands of trees, that come the time for the Games, there will just be a scene of greenery either side of the major arterial roads and expressways to the venues.

We arrived in the area of the Great Wall, and as it was a public holiday, there were people everywhere. We drove on to Baling where there was another piece of the wall open to the public, and this proved to be a winner for us. Hardly any crowd to speak of, but lots of persistent hawkers. It was freezing cold, a cold like never experienced before by Judy and I. the Canadians were also comparing the temperature to the worst of their winters, so we knew it had to be real bad. A hot coffee, over priced to the max, but given where we were, it was probably to be expected. Normally you might pay 5 to 8 RMB for a cup, but this was 30RMB. Oh well, I guess they have to make a living too, and the customers weren’t all that thick on the ground. We brought a Cable Car/Great Wall combined admission ticket, and set off to see the sights.

This was certainly the most amazing piece of the wall that we had viewed from the road while driving up, but when we got off the cable car at the top of the mountain, the view of the Great Wall was incredible. It went on forever and ever, changing direction at the top and bottom of each disappearing hill. Turrets, steps, ramps, on and on it went. We climbed the nearest bit and it was breath taking. Now I don’t just mean the views. By now we were in a quite windy environ, but the ambient temperature was around -20ºC and when you added (or is that subtracted?) the wind chill, it was unbearable. The Chinese couldn’t handle it, the Canadians couldn’t handle it, and us two Aussies moaned and moaned. The soreness of my hands when I took my gloves off to take Dons photo defies description. It was as if my hand and fingers had been crushed by some sort of press or the like, I cannot say I have ever before felt, nor for that matter ever want to feel these sensations ever again.

We spent about an hour there, and then we got back to the car and headed for Beijing. This took about 1½ hours, as the Chinese were now heading back to their homes in Beijing after visiting their families beyond the city for New Year. We managed to explain to our driver that we wanted to get close to Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City. He did well, and we only had about a 15 minute walk to the main gate. Judy and I walked with the other two to the ticket booth, but as we had been here before, we left them and went our own way. We agreed to meet back at the car at 6pm.

It had now warmed up considerably from the temperature at the Great Wall; it was now around -6C and no wind. Generally it was bearable, but if you didn’t have gloves, beanie, coat and scarf, that would not be the case. We walked the length of the square, and just like on our last visit, the Memorial Hall was closed in the afternoon. Oh well, next time. The entire surrounds of the square had taken on a new look since we were here in 1999. The Drum Tower that we had climbed all over back then was closed for renovation and completely covered in scaffolding. One thing that was similar was the count down clock mounted on the front of the museum. Last time, in 1999 I think, it was for when China was to resume control of Macau, this time it was for the start of the Olympic Games. We tried an internet café, and this one was quiet and well set up. They served hot coffee and hot chocolate while you used their computers. We needed the internal warmth of the drinks, we didn’t need the screen display half Chinese and half English. We managed to work through most things with just our memory of where the right places to click were, but we had to give up on a few things in the end.

After dawdling for another hour or so, we came across a group of Chinese Soldiers drilling on a small court yard at the side of the barracks beside the museum. It was a crack up, they were trying to be serious but they could not stop laughing. We watched them sent running at full pace by their commander when they stuffed up. We watched them go over and over the same drills when they stuffed up. It was very un-Chinese to see such a show of mirth. We then headed back for the car, but as we were over an hour early, we told our driver that we were going into the hotel, that we were parked near, to get some food. We went into the Grand Beijing Hotel, and found a small bar/café situated in an atrium on the third floor. Very fancy, and service to match. We both had club sandwiches and cake, and of course coffee. We paid the account of 461RMB ($77.00 AUD), and we headed for the car. It was worth it, good food and lovely setting. Both Cam and Don were in the car, and the driver was off looking for us. Don’t know why, we were still 5 minutes early of the agreed time.

The drive back to the ship made the whole day worthwhile. The expressways are all toll ways, and the rate seemed a little high when you gauged it on the general Chinese salary. Our man drove like the devil incarnate, and the trip we thought would take 2½ hours was considerably shorter. Best move I have ever seen taken took us all by surprise. Our driver turned off the expressway into a petrol station. We anticipated that he was heading for the WC, but no, he drove straight past it. He was now on a small road that went through a tunnel under the expressway, but when we emerged, we were heading back from where we came and behind another service station that was beside the road heading towards Beijing. A bit of tension was starting to come to the fore from us passengers, as our man was now on the phone having a quite animated conversation. It was almost pitch black and we were now stopped at a high cyclone wire gate that seemed to be heading into a farm block or similar. Our driver got out, pushed the gate open, got back in the car, and drove into this black paddock. The road was just a dirt goat track, and not the sort of road you would normally take your car, certainly not when it was carrying 4 western tourists who had no idea what was going on. I didn’t make it clear earlier, but our man did not speak a word of English, so what ever we asked fell on deaf ears. We were on our own and had no idea where we were or where we were going. Judy lent across and said “I don’t like this”, and Cam and Don were quietly voicing there concerns as well. I put 2 and 2 together, and I thought I knew what was going on, but I will leave this until I finish with describing the journey.

After a few tight turns, a small hill and a creek crossing, we emerged on a small dark back road heading off to god knows where. We traveled along this road for about 10 minutes before making a turn into an even darker and much rougher road. Just what was going on, where was he taking us, will we ever be seen again? Headlines scream. “4 WESTERNERS FOUND MURDERED IN COUNTRY!”. Well I am sure that these were the thoughts going silently but rapidly through the minds of my fellow passengers. Another turn and low and behold, we drove right under the expressway. Straight away our driver turned left and we were at a small toll booth leading on to the same expressway we were traveling on before. Now you should have worked it out by now, and if not, you are as dumb as the other three in the cab with me! In China, you get a ticket at a toll booth just after you drive onto an expressway. As you leave you hand that ticket to another booth and pay just for the distance traveled. Our man, with his bush jaunt, had managed to turn a trip of some 200 kilometers into a trip of just 5 or 10 kilometers. He just presented the ticket that he had got at the last booth, and threw the first one away. Blind Freddy could work it out I thought, but the other 3 blind Freddie’s in the car with me were so sure their days were numbered that they couldn’t put 2 and 2 together and come up with the classic scam!

We then pulled in for fuel, and Don almost had a hissy fit when our man had the attendant fill his car with petrol while the engine was still running, Look we all know that’s not what we do in OZ, or as it seems, Canada, but we weren’t in either place, we were in China and that’s the Chinese way. A soon as he had refueled he made a phone call, stopped the car 30 meters from the petrol station apron, and we waited for god knows what. Once again blind Freddie could see what was going on, but the logic was not happening from my associates until I prompted them that we were waiting for the brother in the little car to come and collect us to take us back to the ship. Judy, Cam and I didn’t mind this, but poor old Don really got the S***S when our man got his revenge. He lowered the window to the windward side, and lit up a smoke. It was so hard not to laugh, but some how I contained myself.

Our driver’s brother arrived in due course, and we headed back to the ship. One detour via his street to show us where he lived, but I think his nose was out of joint when we declined a dinner invite. When we got back on board, Ferdinand, the 3rd Officer told us the current temperature was -13ºC and was expected to fall to at least -15ºC overnight. We headed to our cabin, but not before having a look at the water where we were berthed. Ice and the whole area around us and as far as we could see, was white not murky brown as it should have been. Awesome!

SATURDAY 4TH FEBRUARY 2006

We decided to have a day on board. There was still a fair bit of loading to happen, and I just knew if I didn’t supervise things might go wrong. Well I should have gone on deck about 1am and sorted things out! We were woken from our sleep just after midnight, as the stevedores were attempting to load containers against the wall of our cabin. The ship is set up to take about 120 plus 20 foot long containers in racks that abut the forward wall of the superstructure. The fellows loading them were D**KHEADS. At about 1am as I watched, one stevedore was signaling the crane to jib up. Another was signaling to slew left. A third was signaling to lower the hook. Well the poor bugger in the crane had no idea what to do, and I think he tried them all at the same time! The next 3 hours, until I called it quits and went back to sleep, was a comedy of errors. We headed for breakfast about 8.00am, and joined in the conversation with the other passengers regarding today’s itinery. We had already decided that there was no way we would be venturing out with Don again; it simply wasn’t worth the hassles that no doubt would come up at some stage during another jaunt off the ship. Anyway, we wanted to see what was happening with the stevedores, and how much cargo was still to be loaded/off loaded. We told the others of our intentions, and left them to do their own thing. We went to E-Deck to check out the ice in the day light and it was just amazing. The whole area was like one ice cube, and no wonder, it was still -10ºC. A ship berthed near us was being moved out into the river by 2 tug boats, and as it was dragged sideways, the ice flow just went with it. We lasted as long as we could out on deck, but the cold was unbearable. In the sun, which was now shining brightly, it was almost all right to stay out, but get in the shadows and this wasn’t a place to be. We watched the stevedore’s antics with more containers. One container was lifted 5 times with different configurations of slings, shackles and lifting beams, but they just couldn’t get it into place. It turns out that they were trying to go beyond our cranes reach by having their lifting beam on too long a sling. Our Captain sent the 3rd Officer down to tell them it could not be done with what they had, so use the ships lifting beam with the shorter slings and all will be well. He was right, and eventually they got the show on the road again. We loaded for all of the morning, and had the whole job complete by 5.30pm. Our cranes were tied down and we awaited the dreaded pilot. First call was he would arrive at 1730hrs. Next was 2300hrs. Well the captain thought neither would occur, and reckoned about 3am. Spot on, I awoke to feel the ship sliding into the centre of the river courtesy of 2 tugs. No sense going up on deck now, so back to sleep to the sound and vibration of the engine, I will get the gossip at breakfast.


SUNDAY 5TH FEBRUARY 2006

Down for breakfast at 7.45am, and Cam told me he took a few photos of our departure. We are saving and burning his photographs to DVD for him, so we are keeping a copy for ourselves. He takes hundreds, some good, some bad, but he certainly has the full journey covered. While I visited the bridge, Judy cleaned up some of the paperwork we had around, and then she played on the computer. A lazy morning followed.

I knew I had to catch up on this blogger, so my afternoon and evening was planned, but not before I walked around the deck for an hour and a half. It was so cold in the wind that I had to have a shower to thaw out when I got back. Judy did 1 lap, but it was too cold for her. The sea was like a mill pond, no swell at all. With the flat seas and a tide from the stern, we were making the great speed of 21.6 knots (so I was told on my bridge visit before lunch). That is fast enough to water ski, but at this temperature, the brass monkeys would need welders if they fell off and went in the water

We just sat, read, and got on the computer for the rest of the day and evening. Well almost, we had to have a bridge visit after dinner. There were ships visible in all directions, and the Captain said we were surrounded by no less than 150 vessels. The images on the radar were incredible, yellow dots covered the whole screen.

Slack days make you so tired………..zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz


MONDAY 6TH JANUARY 2006

Woke up and looked out the bedroom window and the sea was like a mill pond, no waves, no swell. We were really charging along and had the entire sea to ourselves, not another vessel in sight. Looking to the horizon you could see that a storm was brewing, and thick dark clouds were in our path. Just how quick the conditions may change was hard to imagine, what with our limited seafaring knowledge, just how long does it take for a storm to hit out here in the middle of the South China Sea? At breakfast the Captain informed us that it had snowed during the night.

Back in our cabin, Judy decided to do some house work, not that we had to do much as Freddie, the Steward, called in every day to check things out and empty bins etc. But despite his visits, you still have a few things lying around that need to be put away and the ironing won’t do itself. I went to the Bridge to check that all was under control and got into my usual inquisitive mode with the guys up there. It is interesting to spend a bit of time with the different people on the ship as they all have their own tales to tell. Ferdinand, the 3rd Officer was his usual very polite self, and as he normally does, showed me exactly where we were at this point in time, as well as our intended track and ETA to the anchorage at Shanghai. The AB (Able Bodied Seaman) on duty today was a fellow named Librado Rodrigo. He was from the Philippines, as was nearly all of the crew. The exception being the Polish Captain and Chief Engineer. He told me he was 28y/o and had a 2y/o son and that his wife was 4 months pregnant with their second child. He had been at sea for 6 years and he thought he would continue until he was 40y/o. At home he could expect to earn between 10,000 & 15,000 (pesos, or whatever their currency units are) a month, but at sea he would earn at least 60,000 a month. Certainly puts things in a different light when you make the comparison. I certainly wouldn’t like to be away from my family for the 9 months duration of their work contracts, but it seems that the only way to get ahead is for them to do this. He told me that the fellows who go away to sea make enough money in this time to set themselves up quite well, and that it gives them sufficient funds to provide for their families quite well. Librado had to take English language lessons to be able to get a job at sea, and now that he is on the payroll, he can expect regular advancement if he continues with maritime studies. It was an interesting conversation and offered an insight into the lifestyle of people in another country, a lifestyle far removed from what we seem to be privileged to have. Good old OZ rates pretty high from what I have seen during my travels. The others are all right to visit, but we are the “lucky country” that’s for sure.

Anyway, back to the Bridge. At any given time there is at least one officer on duty there. This may be either the Chief Officer, the Second or Third Officer. The Captain comes and goes as he sees fit, but is always in command when the Pilot is on board, during anchoring or anchor retrieval, or when we are in areas where there are a lot of other ships or vessels. As well as the officers, there is an AB, and it is his job to man the helm and keep a sharp lookout across the seas. The ship is equipped with an Auto Pilot, so quite often in the open ocean; the AB is just walking from side to side of the bridge keeping watch. Any change of direction requested by the Officers is spoken out aloud, and then repeated by the AB as he begins the change. When he reaches the requested heading, he again voices aloud that he is on the heading. It’s a pretty fool proof system, and when you are up on the Bridge having a gig, as we often are, it really puts you into the picture. More on the Bridge another day.

Well during the mid morning, the storm hit, rough seas with about a 4 meter swell, accompanied by very strong winds. Both of us felt a bit off color, not really sea sick, just a little bit out of sorts. Could have been the lunch of “oven baked milk fish” (which we think was salmon cooked in foil), but that would be a fib to blame the food. Anyway, we both lay on our beds reading for most of the arvo, and no deck walk as we would have fallen over the side if we had tried. We had anchored off Shanghai during lunch, with the intent of just an hour or so until the pilot boarded. He was due at 2.20pm, and we would berth about 4½ hours later. Ha ha, Plan A got the flick real quick as there had been 2 days of rain and the port was once again behind in their schedule. We were soon told it was to be Plan B, 3.30am for the pilot. As we were enjoying a bottle of Merlot with the Chief Engineer at the end of dinner, the latest news came, Plan C, it was now to be 3.30pm tomorrow. You have to have patience in this sea faring caper, always hurry up and wait!

Speaking of dinner, tonight we had cake for desert. It was Sammy, the Cooks birthday so we all got to share in a cake. You never know if, or when, you are going to have desert, and we have decided that that is just how we like it, unorganized. Freddie, the Steward, said this way it’s always a surprise.

I seem to be all over the shop today, but just remembered a part of the Bridge trip I need to tell all of you about. The Captains son is a 3rd Officer on a Swiss container ship that plies the water between China, Korea and Japan. He has been hoping to meet him in one of the ports we visit, but no matter how close, it doesn’t appear as if it will happen. Well it didn’t until today. Both of our vessels were due in to Shanghai this afternoon, and our Captain was most excited. As I stood with him, he had the pilot station radio quite loud, and was listening with much anticipation, to his sons ships Captain conversing with the pilots. All seemed good for about an hour, and then the inevitable happened. His sons’ ship was cleared to go straight in while we were still at anchor. They were due to sail again at 3.30am, so at the best, they would get to wave to each other across the water. The disappointment on his face was clearly evident, but when I asked him if we would be close again, ever the optimist, he replied with “maybe Korea”. Time will tell.

After dinner we watched a movie then headed to bed about 11pm. It was a rough night with the ship at anchor but rolling from side to side, and we had continual buffeting of strong wind on our windows. You sleep in these conditions, but are regularly disturbed from your slumber. You go straight back to sleep, but do feel quite tired by the time you do get up in the morning. All good though, it’s all part of the experience.

Thursday, February 02, 2006

Wednesday 1st February, 2006

A sleep in was to be the order of the day following last nights arduous session on this blogger. Not to be. I don’t know what it was, but something startled me awake at 5.30am. My mind raced, and the only thought was that the pilot had arrived and we were departing early. Out of bed in a flash, open the curtains and what do I see? Nothing, same place, no tugs, no action.

I tried to go back to sleep, but just dozed for another 1.30 minutes. Really it was a waste of time, as I kept waking to every sound and movement. Turns out the ship had word late last night that the pilot would board at 6am, so the noises I had heard were the poor crew members out on deck getting ready for the early departure. I say poor crew members, because the outside temperature was MINUS 8 ºC!

Well the pilots, yes two of them, one an old hand and one a trainee fresh out of school, boarded about 8am, and we were ready to go in no time. We went for breakfast, and then headed for the bridge to watch the antics of the pilots, and it was quite interesting watching the old fellow impart some of his knowledge on the new pup. It seems their late arrival was due to two factors,
1 - They should be having a holiday.
2 – It was too cold to start work early.
They stayed on board until about 9.30am, then jumped ship and we were on our own and heading for Xingang, the Port of Tianjin. Evidently the river that flows through Tianjin to the sea silted up and large vessels could no longer get upstream to the docks. They built new port at Xingang, and this was where we were headed.

Rest of the day was lazy, excepting for the unannounced life boat drill. 3.30pm and the alarm goes off, we decide it is a drill and not the real thing, but are not 100% sure. The only thing to do was don the helmets and life jackets we were issued with, and head for the Muster Station on A Deck. Well it had warmed up by this stage, and was now only minus6°C. We both grabbed our coats, but didn’t think about anything else. Ship was traveling at 18 knots and wind was force 8, so that makes the wind speed about 45knots and bloody freezing! I had thin track suit pants and my boots, but poor Judy only had a thin dress on and sandals. We suffered the drill on deck for about 10 minutes, and then we were invited to go down to the conference room on the Poop Deck, for a talk on survival at sea in cold temperatures. This was quite informative, especially when you managed to understand the Third Officers broken English! We actually managed to make some sense of what he was trying to say, and the most interesting point was that as we were equipped with EPIRB’s so as to be located at sea, it only took 45 minutes for our intending saviors to pin point the position of our beacon if it was activated. All they then had to do was get to our position. The only trouble we could foresee was that with water at this temperature, the best possible length of survival in the water was 45 minutes. You got it, we were stuffed anyway! Oh well, it’s been a good life,

For the rest of the day we just lazed around, particularly as with a 5 meter swell and force 8 winds, walking in a straight line was not an option. I did venture to the bridge about 3.30pm for an hour, and I can report that all was well, and I left the Captain, Second Mate, and Samuel, one of the AB’s who mans the helm in control.

After dinner we both ventured to the Bridge again. It was becoming a regular event, and this time we spent about 1.30 minutes there, observing the procedures used as we dropped anchor at Xingang. After we were anchored, the Captain told us that the pilot was expected at 9am tomorrow, but he thought that if true to form, it would be closer to noon. Back to our cabin, a bit of a read, then lights out. This seamanship is hard work.